Funeral potatoes gone fancy

When did you first hear about “funeral potatoes?” I’ll bet many of you have been introduced to this dish, either at a potluck, a family dinner or an actual funeral. My remake of this communal classic is one you can prepare any time during these cold winter months. It will make lots of palates happy.

It might seem unlikely that a dish with “funeral” in its name could become popular outside of an internment ceremony. Until you taste it, that is. Originating in Utah’s LDS community, where funeral services are often accompanied by communal potluck meals, this cheesy and creamy potato casserole has spread far beyond its Rocky Mountain roots. As casseroles go, this one, for me, is right up there with church carpet casserole. 

One part of its appeal, especially if you’re making a large batch for a big gathering, is convenience. The original recipe uses canned cream soup and pre-shredded store-bought hashbrowns to make it easy to assemble. Sautéed onions, sour cream, cheddar cheese and a topping of either crushed potato chips or corn flakes typically round out the dish. 

It occurred to me a few years ago that while this dish is super satisfying on its own, it could be elevated to incorporate new flavors and more scratch-made elements. My version brings some Italian influence to the table, while keeping the convenience of freezer-section hashbrowns. 

One of my biggest upgrades is the introduction of four Italian cheeses, each serving an important role. Mascarpone brings creaminess, parmesan introduces a familiar salty nuttiness, sharp provolone (also called provolone piccante) adds a bit of bite, and mozzarella pulls it all together. Fennel and pancetta are some additional Italian flavors that make the dish special. 

Here are a few tips: First, you need a very large sauté pan to combine all the ingredients before it’s time to bake. Second, all these cheeses can be found in most large grocery stores, but some stores have two cheese sections — one for familiar domestic cheeses, and one for imported specialty cheeses. Look in both sections. You might find the pancetta with the imported specialties as well. 

ITALIAN FOUR CHEESE FUNERAL POTATOES RECIPE 

30 oz. frozen hashbrowns 
6-8 oz. pancetta, diced
1 small onion, diced
1 small bulb of fennel, diced
14.5 oz. can chicken stock
1/2 cup milk
1/3 cup flour
3/4 cup parmigiano reggiano, grated
1 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella, shredded 
1/2 cup mascarpone
3/4 cup sharp (piccante) provolone, shredded 
8 tbsp salted butter
1/2 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped
3 cloves chopped garlic
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
3 tbsp olive oil

Toast the breadcrumbs with olive oil over medium heat in a small sauté pan. Add some salt, pepper, and a pinch of red pepper flake (optional) for heat. Once the breadcrumbs are lightly golden brown, set them aside while you make the rest of the dish. 

Sauté four ounces of the pancetta in a very large pan for 5 minutes on medium heat. Add and cook the diced onion and fennel in 5 tbsp butter over medium heat until soft, about 10-15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper while it sautés. Add the garlic and rosemary, and cook another two minutes. Add the flour, stir it in, and cook another 2-3 minutes. 

Next, add the milk, stir, allow it to thicken, and then add the chicken stock. Whisk to make sure no flour lumps remain. 

Simmer the ingredients for a few minutes and then remove from heat. Add your mascarpone first and mix thoroughly. Then stir in the shredded provolone, the shredded mozzarella, and half of the grated parmesan. Add the hashbrowns and stir until all ingredients are incorporated. 

Transfer the mixture to a buttered 9” x 13” or 10” x 14” casserole dish (or two smaller dishes) and top with the toasted bread crumbs and the rest of the grated parmesan. Cover with foil and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 30 minutes. Then remove the foil and bake for another 15 minutes. 

Allow the casserole to sit 15-20 minutes before serving. While it sits, sauté the remaining 2-4 ounces of pancetta until crisp, and drain off the fat. Top each serving with crispy pancetta when plating.