Jon Bennion, Author at Montana Free Press https://montanafreepress.org Montana's independent nonprofit news source. Mon, 23 Feb 2026 22:40:53 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://montanafreepress.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/cropped-Site-ID-1-100x100.png Jon Bennion, Author at Montana Free Press https://montanafreepress.org 32 32 177360995 The humble Polish pierogi, transformed https://montanafreepress.org/2026/02/23/the-humble-polish-pierogi-transformed/ Mon, 23 Feb 2026 22:38:49 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=262251

One of the most famous culinary contributions of Montana’s Polish immigrants is the humble pierogi. It’s an incredibly approachable dish that lacks the pretentiousness of many filled pastas from Italy and the complexities of some Pacific Rim potstickers. But don’t let their simplicity fool you into thinking they aren’t every bit as satisfying as their dumpling cousins from other corners of the globe.

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Roughly 1-2% of Montana’s population can trace its roots to Poland. Not quite the numbers you see in the Midwest, which is where many Polish-speaking immigrants from Eastern Europe arrived in the late 19th and first half of the 20th century. In the early years of this migration, many Poles came to America in search of a home, since their own country was partitioned between Russia, Prussia and Austria. Later, two world wars rocked the region and left even more Poles without a home. 

Those who came to Montana often ended up working in Butte’s mines or on the railroads, just after Montana became a state. If you visit the Granite Mountain Memorial in Butte — a tribute to the 163 miners who died in the Speculator Mine disaster of 1917 — you’ll see a Polish flag honoring miners of Polish descent who perished that day. Some rural agriculture communities around the state also saw small groups of Polish settlers. 

One of these immigrants’ most famous culinary contributions is the humble pierogi, the Polish dumpling that also shows up in many forms, and under many names, in other Eastern European communities. It’s an incredibly approachable dish that lacks the pretentiousness of many filled pastas from Italy and the complexities of some Pacific Rim potstickers. But don’t let their simplicity fool you into thinking they aren’t every bit as satisfying as their dumpling cousins from other corners of the globe. 

As with all dumplings, there are two essential parts: wrapper and filling. In researching pierogi, I’ve found variations that tell important stories about scarcity and resourcefulness. Pierogi were invented to use ingredients that were available, and that has differed greatly across different circumstances. Eventually, as populations became more settled and secure, families honed in on their own distinctive ways of making them. 

Dough recipes for the wrapper were far more varied than I anticipated. Besides flour and eggs, I’ve seen water, milk, butter and/or oil included as well. I opted for a version that includes a bit of sour cream, which brings additional flavor and a supple texture to the equation. Once combined, this dough is much softer than homemade pasta. It’s more highly hydrated and is kneaded for just a few minutes to ensure the ingredients are combined, rather than working up the gluten levels for extra chewiness. 

Fillings can vary from savory concoctions that feature potato, cheese, onion, cabbage or mushrooms all the way to sweet pierogi filled with fruit. Nothing is more satisfying to me than the carb-on-carb deliciousness of a soft dumpling wrapper and a hearty mashed potato interior. When I saw potato and cheese combos, I knew I had to transform a beloved classic — the loaded baked potato — into pierogi form with the inclusion of bacon and scallions. It does not disappoint. 

Once the dumpling is constructed, cooking methods can differ slightly as well. Boiling them through is most common, but I was lured in with an optional second step — frying— to add deliciously crispy bits to the chewy edges. I fry my pierogi in drippings left over from the bacon bits I cook for the topping. 

The final necessary element, no matter what part of the world your dumpling comes from, is toppings, dips or sauces. Sour cream is traditional for pierogi, and I didn’t alter that, since it fits right into the baked potato theme. Toss on those crispy bacon bits and a bit more scallion and it’s hard to imagine anything better. 

Loaded Baked Potato Pierogi Recipe
Makes approximately 25-30 pierogi

Dough:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sour cream
2 eggs
2 tablespoons water

Filling:
1 pound russet potatoes
2 oz. sharp cheddar cheese
2 scallions
2 tbsp butter
1/4 cup heavy cream
kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper

Topping and dipping:
3-4 strips of bacon, scallion, sour cream

In a mixing bowl, add the flour and form a well in the middle. Add the eggs, a 1/4 cup of sour cream and two tablespoons of water to the center. Mix well with a fork until you can’t see any wet spots. Move any dough from the fork back into the bowl and use your hands to bring it all together. Knead until it forms a ball, which should take about two minutes. Cover the bowl with a towel to let the dough rest. 

Peel the potatoes and cut them into 2-3-inch pieces. Fill a medium pot 3/4 full of cold water and add a hefty pinch of kosher salt. Add the potatoes to the pot and bring to a boil. Once it reaches a boil, lower the heat to a simmer. Cook the potatoes until they’re fork-tender, which will take about 15-20 minutes. Drain the water off the potatoes and use either a ricer or a potato masher to break them down until there are no lumps. Add two tablespoons of butter to melt while the potatoes are hot. Once the butter is melted, add 1/4 cup of heavy cream, a good pinch of kosher salt, freshly cracked black pepper, and mix. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary. Allow the potatoes to cool to room temperature. 

Dice your 2 ounces of sharp cheddar cheese into small cubes (about 1/8”-3/16”). I prefer this to shredding, as you’ll get nicer pockets of cheese in the final product, but using a large cheese grater is okay too. Finely chop the two scallions. Add the cheese and chopped scallion to the cooled potatoes and mix to distribute evenly. 

Remove the dough from the bowl. If it feels a bit sticky, you can add some flour to the exterior. This is the time to roll out your dough to make wrappers between 1/16” and 1/8” thick. I like to use my pasta machine to get an even thickness. If you use a pasta machine, don’t take it down to the last setting, as that will be too thin. Using a rolling pin is fine. 

You will be cutting circles between 2.5” and 3” in diameter. Most biscuit cutters are roughly this size, or you can use the top of a drinking glass with that diameter. Place the extra dough back in the bowl with a towel over it. You can re-roll it to use all of the filling. 

Depending on the size of your circles, place no more than a tablespoon of filling on a wrapper. Bring the sides together into half-moons and pinch the edges shut. If you can’t easily close the wrapper over the filling, you’re using too much filling. If the edges don’t easily stay together once pinched, dip your finger in a bit of water and run it around half of the wrapper’s interior edge before sealing. Once it’s sealed, you can use the tines of a fork to press around the edges for extra insurance. 

Fill a large pot 3/4 full of water and start to bring to a boil. In a large sauté pan, fry the bacon until crispy. Remove the bacon, but leave the grease in the pan. Chop the bacon into small bits and set aside for topping the pierogi. When the large pot of water comes to a boil, boil half of the pierogi. They are done about a minute after they start to float. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels or a clean kitchen towel to dry. Repeat with the rest of the pierogi when the water is boiling again. 

Preheat the large sauté pan with the bacon grease on medium. You’ll need about 2 tablespoons of grease in the pan, so add a bit of oil or butter if you don’t have enough fat from the bacon. Add half of the pierogi to the pan and fry for about 1-2 minutes on each side until they’re a bit crispy and golden brown. Repeat with the other half, adding more fat as needed. Top with bacon bits and scallion and serve with a side of sour cream. 

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Cold calls for stout and stew https://montanafreepress.org/2026/02/09/cold-calls-for-stout-and-stew/ Mon, 09 Feb 2026 19:17:22 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=261559

When it’s time to tame the chill in your core, the only true cure is stew.

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“Soup season” has become a common way to describe the colder 5-6 months of the year. As George Costanza would say on “Seinfeld,” we “shift into soup mode” as early as October and stay there through April. 

But sometimes plain old soup won’t cut it. Though much of Montana has had an atypically temperate winter so far this year, we know that Mother Nature can save her most bitter temperatures for February or even March. When you have to shovel two feet of snow off your driveway, chop firewood in the howling wind, or tame the chill in your core because you forgot to pack a hat and gloves, the only true cure is stew. 

When I think of stew, several necessities come to mind. I’m not opposed to vegetarian dishes in general, but meat seems to be a requirement for stew. Next, stew needs substantive chunks that fill your spoon. Stew ingredients should not be pureed or finely diced. Lastly, we don’t want the brothy consistency of soup. We want a more viscous and velvety base that pulls all the pieces together. 

For stew inspiration, I look to the Irish. Guinness stout beer is the backbone of my recipe, but Montana is dotted with more breweries than you can count, many with distinctive stout offerings of their own that will work just as well. Potatoes and carrots pair well with chuck roast to create a filling meal. Thyme, an herb often used on the Emerald Isle, makes an appearance, along with Worcestershire sauce from neighboring Britain. 

The techniques that build this stew are not unlike those behind beef burgundy, except the red wine is swapped out for a dark, malty beer with the richness of a milkshake. Many Irish stew recipes feature lamb instead of beef, which is an excellent alternative. In either case, look for cuts that have decent marbling, which will break down in the slow-cooking process to deliver tender results. 

There’s a lot to love in this recipe, which is meant to be shared with friends and family. If you still want dessert after a bowl of this stew, consider a well-earned nap instead. Make sure to have these ingredients on hand in case we get socked in by a big freeze in the coming weeks. They’ll get you through most any storm.

Stout Stew Recipe
Serves 6-8

2 lbs beef chuck roast
2 lbs small gemstone potatoes
1 lb carrots
1 large onion, diced
1 14.9 oz. can of Guinness beer 
3 large sprigs of thyme
2 tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp freshly minced garlic
2 14.5 oz. cans of low-sodium beef broth
1 cup water
1 bay leaf
1 tbsp flour
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
neutral oil or beef tallow
kosher salt
ground black pepper

Cut your chuck roast into 1” cubes. Season generously with kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper. Add a few teaspoons of neutral oil or beef tallow to a large Dutch oven preheated to medium-high. Sear the meat on at least a few sides, about 2-3 minutes per side. Do this in batches so the meat doesn’t crowd the pan. Once the meat is browned, set it on a plate to the side. 

Lower the heat to medium and add the diced onion to the Dutch oven. Salt and pepper the onions and stir every few minutes. Once they turn soft and translucent, add the minced garlic and cook for two minutes. Add a heaping tablespoon of flour and two tablespoons of tomato paste and stir into the onions and garlic. Cook for another two minutes. 

Add the stout and start scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pot. Add three thyme sprigs, bay leaf, beef broth, water and Worcestershire sauce. Allow the brew to come to a simmer. Add the beef and any drippings to the Dutch oven. Place the pot in a 350-degree oven with the lid on. 

As the stew is steeping, cut the potatoes into 1” pieces, similar to the size of the beef bites. I use small tricolor “gemstone” potatoes, but you can use any small potatoes and cut them down to 1”. (Leave the peels on so the potatoes don’t break down.) Peel the carrots and cut those into 1” pieces as well. Once the stew has been in the oven for an hour and a half, carefully pull it out and stir in the potatoes and carrots. Place the lid back on and return to the oven for another 1.5 hours. 

Remove the stew from the oven, taste for seasoning, and add salt and/or pepper to taste. Also check the texture of the meat, potatoes and carrots. If you want a bit more tenderness, put it back in the oven for another half-hour. Remove the thyme springs and bay leaf before serving. 

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Make polenta tots the star of your Super Bowl party https://montanafreepress.org/2026/01/26/make-polenta-tots-the-star-of-your-super-bowl-party/ Mon, 26 Jan 2026 23:13:24 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=260803

Why would anyone want to make a “tot” out of polenta? I thought you’d never ask.

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Chicken wings. Nachos. Chili. Chips and dip. Meatballs. Sliders. 

These are all foods you’re likely to find at watch parties for the big game on Feb. 8. Allow me to call a culinary trick play that’s sure to score by adding polenta tots to the menu. 

Polenta is a coarsely ground cornmeal that became popular in northern Italy once corn made it over from the Americas. More often than not, it has a beautiful golden yellow color. As carbs go, polenta doesn’t rank as high as potatoes, bread, or even rice. You can find it in nicer restaurants with Italian leanings.

Polenta’s close cousin in the southern United States is grits, which is derived from different corn varietals and is often ground a bit finer than polenta. It’s usually paler white in color. 

You can now find polenta in most larger Montana grocery stores. It will say “polenta,” and should not be mistaken for regular cornmeal or grits. It’s often in the same aisle as flour or dry grains, or with whole grains in the health food section. 

But why would anyone want to make a “tot” out of it? First of all, I am a big fan of tater tots, either the OG version familiar from a million school lunches or the make-at-home frozen variety. Homemade tater tots from scratch, alas, are just too much finicky work to be worth it.

Enter polenta. This recipe is a breeze for all kitchen-skill levels. With just a few ingredients, a stint in the fridge, and a 30- to 40-minute bake in the oven, polenta becomes a crispy-creamy finger food guaranteed to wow your friends and family. My version includes a drizzle of garlic butter, Parmesan, and parsley over the top, which dresses it up for any occasion.

This recipe serves 4-6 people — not exactly party-size. But you can easily double or triple it, as long as you use a larger pan or multiple pans to firm up the polenta before baking. And while I’m a big fan of this garlic-and-Parm-topped version, there are plenty of ways to enjoy these tots. Pair them with your favorite marinara or dip, for instance, or top with chili and cheese.

POLENTA TOTS RECIPE

Serves 4-6

Tots:
1 cup polenta
2 cups of whole or 2% milk
1 1/2 cups of water
2 tbsp butter
3/4 tsp kosher salt

Topping:
2 ounces Parmesan cheese
3 tbsp butter
1-2 cloves of garlic
1 tbsp chopped fresh Italian parsley

In a large saucepan on medium heat, add the milk, water and salt. As it comes to a simmer, whisk in the polenta. Drop the heat to low and whisk every minute or so for about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the butter. Whisk until the butter is melted and incorporated.

Line a 9” x 9” baking dish with cling wrap. You want to run some wrap across the dish in both directions so you can completely wrap the polenta in it. Once the polenta cools a bit from its hot-lava state, pour it into the cling-wrap-lined dish. Give the dish a few shakes to nudge the polenta into the corners and let it level out. Pull the cling wrap over the top so all the polenta is encased.

The polenta needs to set up in the fridge for at least three hours, but you can also do this prep a day in advance and allow it to set overnight. 

Once it’s set, remove the polenta from the cling wrap and place it on a cutting board. Gently soak up any moisture on the exterior with a paper towel. Now the polenta should be easy to cut into 1” by 1” by 2” rectangles with a sharp knife. You’ll get cleaner cuts if you occasionally wipe your knife with a paper towel as you go.

Preheat your oven to 450 degrees on the convection setting. Double-line a large baking tray with parchment paper. Place the tots on the tray with one inch between them on all sides to ensure the heat can circulate. Sprinkle the tops with a bit of kosher salt, and then bake for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, remove the tray from the oven, turn each tot 180 degrees, and then bake for another 15-20 minutes, until lightly golden brown.

Now make the drizzle. Put three tablespoons of butter and 1-2 cloves of minced fresh garlic in a small sauté pan on medium-low heat. Once the butter is melted, you only need to cook the garlic for a few minutes, just long enough to flavor the butter. Pulse two ounces of Parmesan in a food processor until fine. Finely chop one tablespoon of fresh Italian parsley. 

When the tots are finished baking, add them to a large mixing bowl. Slowly drizzle with the garlic butter and toss gently with a spoon. Add the Parmesan and parsley and gently toss again. Serve immediately.

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Funeral potatoes gone fancy https://montanafreepress.org/2026/01/12/funeral-potatoes-gone-fancy/ Mon, 12 Jan 2026 21:55:01 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=260160

I’ll bet many of you have been introduced to “funeral potatoes,” either at a potluck, a family dinner or an actual funeral. My remake of this communal classic is one you can prepare any time during these cold winter months. It will make lots of palates happy.

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When did you first hear about “funeral potatoes?” I’ll bet many of you have been introduced to this dish, either at a potluck, a family dinner or an actual funeral. My remake of this communal classic is one you can prepare any time during these cold winter months. It will make lots of palates happy.

It might seem unlikely that a dish with “funeral” in its name could become popular outside of an internment ceremony. Until you taste it, that is. Originating in Utah’s LDS community, where funeral services are often accompanied by communal potluck meals, this cheesy and creamy potato casserole has spread far beyond its Rocky Mountain roots. As casseroles go, this one, for me, is right up there with church carpet casserole

One part of its appeal, especially if you’re making a large batch for a big gathering, is convenience. The original recipe uses canned cream soup and pre-shredded store-bought hashbrowns to make it easy to assemble. Sautéed onions, sour cream, cheddar cheese and a topping of either crushed potato chips or corn flakes typically round out the dish. 

It occurred to me a few years ago that while this dish is super satisfying on its own, it could be elevated to incorporate new flavors and more scratch-made elements. My version brings some Italian influence to the table, while keeping the convenience of freezer-section hashbrowns. 

One of my biggest upgrades is the introduction of four Italian cheeses, each serving an important role. Mascarpone brings creaminess, parmesan introduces a familiar salty nuttiness, sharp provolone (also called provolone piccante) adds a bit of bite, and mozzarella pulls it all together. Fennel and pancetta are some additional Italian flavors that make the dish special. 

Here are a few tips: First, you need a very large sauté pan to combine all the ingredients before it’s time to bake. Second, all these cheeses can be found in most large grocery stores, but some stores have two cheese sections — one for familiar domestic cheeses, and one for imported specialty cheeses. Look in both sections. You might find the pancetta with the imported specialties as well. 

ITALIAN FOUR CHEESE FUNERAL POTATOES RECIPE 

30 oz. frozen hashbrowns 
6-8 oz. pancetta, diced
1 small onion, diced
1 small bulb of fennel, diced
14.5 oz. can chicken stock
1/2 cup milk
1/3 cup flour
3/4 cup parmigiano reggiano, grated
1 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella, shredded 
1/2 cup mascarpone
3/4 cup sharp (piccante) provolone, shredded 
8 tbsp salted butter
1/2 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped
3 cloves chopped garlic
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
3 tbsp olive oil

Toast the breadcrumbs with olive oil over medium heat in a small sauté pan. Add some salt, pepper, and a pinch of red pepper flake (optional) for heat. Once the breadcrumbs are lightly golden brown, set them aside while you make the rest of the dish. 

Sauté four ounces of the pancetta in a very large pan for 5 minutes on medium heat. Add and cook the diced onion and fennel in 5 tbsp butter over medium heat until soft, about 10-15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper while it sautés. Add the garlic and rosemary, and cook another two minutes. Add the flour, stir it in, and cook another 2-3 minutes. 

Next, add the milk, stir, allow it to thicken, and then add the chicken stock. Whisk to make sure no flour lumps remain. 

Simmer the ingredients for a few minutes and then remove from heat. Add your mascarpone first and mix thoroughly. Then stir in the shredded provolone, the shredded mozzarella, and half of the grated parmesan. Add the hashbrowns and stir until all ingredients are incorporated. 

Transfer the mixture to a buttered 9” x 13” or 10” x 14” casserole dish (or two smaller dishes) and top with the toasted bread crumbs and the rest of the grated parmesan. Cover with foil and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 30 minutes. Then remove the foil and bake for another 15 minutes. 

Allow the casserole to sit 15-20 minutes before serving. While it sits, sauté the remaining 2-4 ounces of pancetta until crisp, and drain off the fat. Top each serving with crispy pancetta when plating. 

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Meet your most useful condiment of 2026: onion gravy https://montanafreepress.org/2025/12/29/meet-your-most-useful-condiment-of-2026-onion-gravy/ Mon, 29 Dec 2025 19:09:10 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=259488

It’s not every Wide Open Table column in which a condiment plays the star, but this onion gravy is primed to elevate a plate near you in 2026.

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It’s not every Wide Open Table column in which a condiment plays the star, but this onion gravy is primed to elevate a plate near you in 2026. 

Gravies usually start with meat drippings, and they can provide a critically savory complement to roasts and side dishes. Several centuries ago, British cooks figured out how to stretch those drippings with onions and feed even more hungry mouths. 

Onion gravy has been further refined by other countries and cultures, with French techniques having the biggest impact. The French thickening process — using a roux coupled with slow caramelization — has its fingerprints all over this recipe. Eventually, onion gravy has evolved to the point at which the recipe requires no meat drippings at all, which is what you have here.

Maybe it’s just my partial British ancestry talking, but I think this modern version makes for a top-notch topping on a variety of main dishes and sides. The popular British combo of bangers and mash (traditional English or Irish sausages with mashed potatoes) wouldn’t work nearly as well without a rich and flavorful onion gravy. It makes a wonderful substitute for the cream gravy in my “bangers and biscuits” recipe, and it distinguishes my pretzel-crusted schnitzel recipe in a special way as well. 

I’m strategically offering this recipe near the start of 2026 because I’ll offer at least one recipe this year that will require you to master this gravy ahead of time. While it can be achieved by the most basic of cooks, there is nothing basic about its taste. Start your new year right with this essential addition to your cooking arsenal.

ONION GRAVY RECIPE

Serves 4-5 

20-24 oz. yellow onions
4 tbsp butter
2 tbsp flour
1/3 cup red wine
14.5 oz. can of chicken broth
1 tbsp stone-ground mustard
1 1/2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 clove of garlic, minced
1 large sprig fresh thyme, or 1/4 tsp dry thyme

Slice the onions in half and peel the exteriors. With the cut side down, slice across them to produce strips no more than 1/4-inch thick. Preheat a large sauté pan on medium heat. Add the butter and onions. Stir to coat and spread evenly in the pan.

Place foil or a lid on the pan and cook for five to six minutes. You should start to see a little browning on the edges. Add 1/4 inch of water and stir until it evaporates. This starts to coat the onions with any browned contents from the pan. Repeat this process four or five times, checking on the onions every three minutes. At three-minute intervals, add 1/4 cup of water, stir, and allow the water to evaporate. With each step, you’ll see the onions getting smaller and browner. This is the caramelization process. 

Once the onions are caramelized, add your minced garlic, thyme and flour, and stir everything together. Cook this mixture for about two minutes before adding the wine. The wine will help you scrape off any browned bits that are still stuck to the pan. Now add your chicken broth, continue scraping bits off the pan, and stir well to pull the flour off the onions, thereby starting the thickening process.

Add the Worcestershire sauce and mustard and stir. Drop the heat to low and let your gravy thicken until it can coat the back of a spoon. If you used a sprig of thyme, remove it from the gravy now. Adjust the seasoning to your taste.

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Homemade grissini, aka supper-club breadsticks https://montanafreepress.org/2025/12/15/homemade-grissini-aka-supper-club-breadsticks/ Mon, 15 Dec 2025 20:13:12 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=258797

It’s hard to go to a party these days without finding a nicely plated platter full of cured meats, cheeses, nuts, fruits, dips, and more. Store-bought crackers are usually the carb of choice on these charcuterie boards, but they can’t compare to a beautiful bouquet of homemade breadsticks standing watch over the appetizers.

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We’re all pretty familiar with the Italian chain-restaurant breadsticks that come out hot, fluffy and unlimited. I’m not going to pick a fight if that’s your thing, because those buttery, garlicky, carbolicious pillows are hard to resist. 

I will, however, introduce or reintroduce you to the old-school version, which you can still find in Montana’s Italian-leaning old-school supper clubs. They often come two per package, side-by-side, in sesame, garlic, onion or plain options. Sesame is my favorite by far. It’s hard not to fill up on them before your food comes out. 

These authentic Old World breadsticks are called “grissini,” and I was able to sample some two years ago on a trip to Italy. They had been freshly made in a Modena kitchen, not packaged. They were super thin and crunchy with a uniformity of size and shape that I’ve tried to emulate, but never achieved. 

This breadstick style is making a comeback due to the popularity of charcuterie boards. It’s hard to go to a party these days without finding a nicely plated platter full of cured meats, cheeses, nuts, fruits, dips and more. Store-bought crackers are usually the carb of choice on these charcuterie boards, but they can’t compare to a beautiful bouquet of homemade breadsticks standing watch over the appetizers. And while their size can be almost daunting, they’re made to be broken into bite-size pieces, around which you can wrap slices of prosciutto and cheese. 

It’s a great way to add a homemade touch to a board that otherwise relies on craft food specialties. And they’re so easy to make you’ll never go back to crackers.

The most difficult part of making these grissini is choosing a flavor option. Plain is always good, and will still be well seasoned with salt. I have to offer sesame, since it’s my supper-club favorite. I also like poppy seed for its extra textural element and color contrast. The final option, and new favorite of mine, is fresh rosemary. The herby element goes well with so many items on a typical charcuterie board. 

If you can’t decide on one, divide your dough into four portions and make some of each, which will only make your breadstick bouquet more spectacular. Just cut the amount of rosemary, sesame seeds, and poppy seeds by a quarter and apply separately. 

SUPPER-CLUB BREADSTICK RECIPE

2 cups bread flour
3/4 cup warm milk
1 packet (3/4 tbsp) dry active yeast
2 tsp sugar
1 1/2 tbsp butter, room temperature
1 1/2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for brushing
1/2 tsp kosher salt, plus more for topping

flavoring options:

2 tsp chopped fresh rosemary
2-3 tbsp sesame seeds
1-2 tbsp poppy seeds

Microwave or heat the milk to the recommended temperature range for activating the yeast, per the packet directions. (It’s usually between 100 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit — use a thermometer to nail the temperature.) Mix the yeast and sugar into the milk and allow to bloom. 

In a stand mixer bowl, add the flour, kosher salt, butter and olive oil. When the yeast has bloomed, add that mixture to the mixer bowl. If you’re making rosemary breadsticks, add the rosemary now. If you’re making sesame seed or poppy seed breadsticks, wait until later to add them. 

Mix the contents of the bowl until they form a ball (about two minutes). Remove the ball from the mixer and knead by hand for a minute to smooth out the dough. Drizzle a bit of olive oil around the dough and cover the bowl with a damp towel and allow the dough to proof for an hour. 

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Divide the dough into two parts. You can place the part you’re not working with back in the bowl. Try to form the half ball into a rectangle with your hands. Then, using a rolling pin and a bit of bench flour to prevent sticking, roll the rectangle out to a length of 10” to 12” and a thickness of roughly 1/8” to 1/4”. It doesn’t have to be perfect. 

Now place the rectangle of dough on a large cutting board. Brush the top with olive oil and then sprinkle with kosher salt. This is all you need to do if you’re making plain breadsticks. If you’re making sesame or poppy seed breadsticks, add those now and pat them gently into the surface of the dough. Turn the rectangle over and repeat. 

Use a pizza wheel to cut full-length strips about 3/8” wide. Size variety helps people see that your breadsticks were scratch-made. 

Repeat with the remaining half of the dough. 

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper (you may need a third sheet, depending on your breadsticks’ length and thickness). Place the breadsticks on the baking sheets, leaving a bit of space between each one. 

Bake in the 400 degree oven for 10 minutes and then rotate the baking sheets. You can also flip each breadstick gently with tongs if you want a more even bake. Bake for another 10-12 minutes, until the breadsticks are mostly golden brown. Allow them to cool on the sheets. Use large Mason jars to “plate” your breadstick bouquets. 

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A citrusy cookie with candy for a heart https://montanafreepress.org/2025/12/01/a-citrusy-cookie-with-candy-for-a-heart/ Mon, 01 Dec 2025 19:23:12 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=257806

My love of old houses of worship led me to develop a recipe for cookies that look a little like church windows, with translucently colorful hard candy standing in for stained glass. You can make these cookies any time of year, but my family enjoys them especially around the holidays.

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Wide Open Table is a bi-monthly Montana Free Press column on all things food and cooking. Sign up for this newsletter here.

During my zig-zag travels around Montana, I often take time to check out the historic churches dotting the state’s landscapes. These old buildings stand as testaments to the faithful followers of many denominations. And they often showcase stained-glass windows. 

You can find basic but beautiful stained glass at Grace Lutheran Church in Barber (you know where Barber is, right?), or at the United Methodist Church near my home in Clancy. The Serbian Orthodox Church in Butte features gorgeous 30-foot windows glowing with Christian imagery. The stained glass of the St. Ignatius Mission illuminates the Catholic church’s distinctive collection of 58 interior paintings. My favorite examples are the elaborate stained-glass tributes to the Old and New Testaments that distinguish the Cathedral of St. Helena in the state capital. 

My love of stained glass has driven me to explore more than Montana’s diverse houses of worship. I’ve also developed a recipe for cookies that look a little like church windows, with translucently colorful hard candy standing in for stained glass. You can make these cookies any time of year, but my family enjoys them especially around the holidays. 

Their citrusy flavor is a good bet for holiday baking as well, since citrus usually comes into season during the winter months. I like to infuse the dough with either orange or lemon zest, giving these cookies a bright flavor that’s well-matched to their illumined inspirations. 

The hard candy that yields a look closest to stained glass is Jolly Rancher. In the second half of the baking process they melt into glassy tributes to their churchy counterparts. But if hard candy is too rough on the teeth, you can substitute gummy candies for a softer texture. Either way, make sure the cookies get a full hour of cooling time so the candy sets completely. 

Few people will ever master the craftsmanship that created Montana’s historic stained-glass windows, but these cookies require no apprenticeship at all. 

RECIPE FOR STAINED GLASS COOKIES

2 3/4 cups flour
1 cup salted butter (2 sticks)
3/4 cup sugar
1 oz. cream cheese
1 whole egg and one egg yolk
1 tbsp lemon or orange zest
1 tsp vanilla 
20 Jolly Ranchers of various colors, or gummy candies for softer centers

Let the butter and cream cheese soften. Using a stand or hand mixer, combine the butter, cream cheese and sugar for about two minutes. Add the vanilla, zest, egg and egg yolk and mix for another minute. Add one cup of the flour and mix for 15 seconds. Add a second cup of flour and mix for 15 seconds. Add the final 3/4 cup of flour and mix until it all comes together. Be careful not to overmix. Place the dough on plastic wrap, form it into a 2-inch-high disc, and cover it completely in plastic wrap. Let it sit in the refrigerator for an hour. 

Preheat your oven to 375° Fahrenheit. Crush the Jolly Ranchers in plastic bags, keeping each color separate. (If you’re using gummy candies, roughly chop them into smaller pieces with a knife ). Remove the dough from the fridge and dust your work surface with flour. Roll out the dough to 1/4-inch thick. Create shapes using a cookie cutter and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Using a much smaller cookie cutter, remove the center of the larger cookie. (You can reroll leftover dough, but it works best if you form it back into a disc and send it back into the fridge for 20-30 minutes covered in plastic.) 

Bake the cookies for about 7 minutes. Then remove them from the oven and carefully place broken pieces of the Jolly Rancher candy or gummy candies in the center spaces. Bake for another 5 minutes, or until the candy has melted. Remove from the oven and let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for at least an hour while the candy sets. 

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Forget pumpkin pie. Try this chai pumpkin tart. https://montanafreepress.org/2025/11/17/forget-pumpkin-pie-try-this-chai-pumpkin-tart/ Mon, 17 Nov 2025 21:10:48 +0000 https://montanafreepress.org/?p=257010

I can’t imagine improving my mom’s pumpkin pie, so I don’t deviate from her recipe on Thanksgiving. And I won’t try to convince you that whatever pumpkin pie you’re attached to isn’t your turkey-day dessert grail. But during the rest of pumpkin season, I enjoy pivoting from the traditional pie to explore other pumpkin sweets. That’s where this chai pumpkin tart enters the picture.

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Wide Open Table is a bi-monthly Montana Free Press column on all things food and cooking. Sign up for this newsletter here.

If you grew up eating your family’s special-recipe pumpkin pie every Thanksgiving, someone else’s can taste peculiar, even disappointing. Our palates grow accustomed to particular spice blends and pie crusts through repetition and recollection. 

I can’t imagine improving my mom’s pumpkin pie, so I don’t deviate from her recipe on Thanksgiving. And I won’t try to convince you that whatever pumpkin pie you’re attached to isn’t your turkey-day dessert grail.  

But during the rest of pumpkin season, I enjoy setting the traditional pie aside to explore other pumpkin sweets. That’s where this chai pumpkin tart enters the picture. There’s a good chance it’s different from the pumpkin pie you’re used to, not least in its crust, which is made of ginger snaps.

You do need a tart pan to make it. I use one 9-inch tart pan and a few mini versions. I prefer tart pans with removable bottoms, which make the baked tart easy to remove and slice cleanly. 

Growing up in Montana, I didn’t know many people who drank chai tea, but quite a few folks now consider it a daily treat. This tart recipe uses spices typically paired with black tea to make chai — a mix often packaged as “chai masala.” 

Chai masala and pumpkin pie spices can share cloves, cinnamon, allspice and ginger in common, but the similarities usually end there. Chai spices often include green cardamom, fennel seeds and black pepper — each of which just happens to partner tastily with everyone’s favorite fall gourd. I get my chai masala from a company called Spicewalla, and I boost their mix with just a bit of extra cinnamon.

Chai spices add warm complexity to this fall tart. And the salty pumpkin-seed toppers pair perfectly with the otherwise sweet seasonal treat. Trust me: this pivot from pie to tart is exactly what your autumn table needs.

PUMPKIN CHAI TART RECIPE

Crust Ingredients:

12 oz. box of ginger snaps
2 tbsp brown sugar
pinch of salt
6-7 tbsp butter

Filling Ingredients:

15 oz. can pumpkin puree 
14 oz. can sweetened condensed milk
2 whole eggs plus 1 egg yolk
1 tbsp chai masala spice
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon 
2 tbsp brown sugar
1/2 cup white sugar
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/4 cup roasted and salted pumpkin seeds

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Using a food processor, pulse the ginger snaps, brown sugar and salt until the cookies are reduced to fine crumbs. Combine with 6-7 tbsp of melted butter, or until the crust holds together when you pinch it. Pour the majority of the mixture into a 9-inch tart pan, and use a measuring cup to pack the crust into the pan. (Use mini tart pans for any leftover mixture, or use two 7-inch tart pans for the entire recipe.) Place the pans on a parchment-lined baking sheet, bake for 6-7 minutes, then remove from the oven and let them cool completely. 

In a large saucepan, combine the pumpkin puree, chai masala, white and brown sugar, salt and cinnamon, and heat over medium. Stir as it heats for 5-6 minutes. Then remove the pan from heat and stir in the condensed milk. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes, then add the two eggs, one yolk and vanilla, stirring until combined. 

Sprinkle half the pumpkin seeds across the crust, then add the filling. Bake on a baking sheet at 350 degrees for 45-50 minutes, or until the tart is mostly set with the middle still a bit jiggly. Remove the tart from the oven, knowing the pie will continue to cook for a bit. Allow the pie to cool for at least two hours. Decorate the top with the remaining pumpkin seeds.

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